Voltage Selector Switch_Idle Solenoid_After-fire.
For more go to previous posts here.
Checking and Installing the Voltage Selector Switch (VSS)
The VSS (a) selects the voltage mode setting of the generator. Changing the voltage mode also changes the orientation of the Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) sensing wires. Use the following information when testing and installing the VSS.
Checking Voltage to Auto Idle Solenoid
Problems with the auto idle system can be classified into one of two categories: electrical problems with power to the idle solenoid or problems with the mechanical linkage. Before checking the electrical system, check the governor mechanical linkage (a) to make sure it’s functioning properly.
Electrical problems can be further broken down in to two categories: 1) power generation by the generator, 2) problems with the electrical circuit feeding power to the solenoid.
* Start the generator.
* Unplug the two white/red wires (b) from the idle solenoid. Measure the voltage between the two wires. There should be 28±2VDC.
If 28±2VDC is measured, the idle solenoid is receiving the correct voltage. If the idle solenoid is receiving the correct voltage but is still not functioning, confirm that it is bad by measuring the resistance of the solenoid’s coil. The coil should measure 26–33 Ohms (16–19 Ohms Wacker Engine). Replace the solenoid if the correct resistance is not measured.
* If 28±2VDC is not measured, continue.
* Stop the generator.
* Remove the screws which secure the control panel to the enclosure.
* Remove the 5A fuse (c). Start the generator and check the voltage across the fuse holder. There should be 20–29 Volts.
> If 20–29 Volts is measured, the source of the problem is in the circuit from the fuse to the idle solenoid.
> If 20–29 Volts is not measured, the source of the problem is in the circuitry between the fuse and the DC winding.
* Reinstall the 5A fuse (replace the fuse if it is blown).
Checking Auto Idle Circuitry between Generator and Fuse
Voltage may be prevented from reaching the 5A fuse by a faulty rectifier or by a faulty DC winding. The auto idle circuit may also be malfunctioning due to faulty sensing wires. To check the circuit, carry out the following procedures:
* Stop the generator.
* Remove the two screws which secure the end cover to the generator and remove the end cover.
To check the rectifier (a), remove the connector plug from the rectifier. Use the diode scale on your multimeter. Probe the top terminal with one lead and the bottom terminal with the other. Then, reverse the leads and conduct the test again. The rectifier should conduct in one direction and not the other. Check both upper terminals of the rectifier to the lower terminal of the rectifier in the same manner.
> If the rectifier is malfunctioning, replace it.
> If the rectifier is functioning, continue.
* Remove the plug (b) from the stator.
* Using the Ohms scale on your multimeter, check the resistance of the DC winding. Each generator size will have a different value for the winding resistance. Check the chart in the graphic for the correct values—use a tolerance of +0.5/-0.0 Ohms. If the correct amount of resistance was not measured, replace the stator.
> If the correct amount of resistance was measured, the DC winding is OK; continue.
> Remove the screws which secure the control panel to the generator.
Check that the sensing wires are running through the ammeter (c) of the auto idle unit.
Check the continuity of the sensing wires (d) from the auto idle unit through to the generator terminal strip (e).
Checking Auto Idle Circuitry Between Fuse and Auto Idle Unit
Voltage may be prevented from reaching the idle solenoid by a faulty auto idle switch or by a faulty auto idle unit. To check the circuit, carry out the following procedure:
Stop the generator.
* Remove the screws which secure the control panel to the generator. Locate the auto idle switch (a).
* Check the continuity of the auto idle switch. If the switch lacks continuity, replace it. If the switch has continuity, it should be functioning.
* Remove the plug from the back of the auto idle unit (b).
* Start the generator.
* Check the voltage between the red and black wires of the plug. There should be 20–29V. At this point in the troubleshooting, you should have measured voltage at the fuse but not at the idle solenoid, and the auto idle switch should have checked OK. Therefore:
> If voltage is measured to the auto idle unit but not at the idle solenoid, the auto idle unit is malfunctioning, replace it.
> If no voltage is measured at the auto idle unit, check the wiring between the fuse and the auto idle unit. Repair or replace the wiring as needed.
Checking Anti-Afterfire Solenoid (AAS) Circuit _ Honda Engine.
* Check the 5A fuse. See section Checking Voltage to Auto Idle Solenoid.
* Check the resistance of the DC winding. See section Checking Auto Idle Circuitry Between Generator and Fuse.
* Check for voltage at the AAS by starting the generator, probing the green and white wires (a) with your multimeter leads, then shutting the engine off and measuring the voltage on the multimeter at shutdown.
There should be 18±2V.
> If the correct voltage was measured, the AAS is malfunctioning; replace it.
> If the correct voltage was not measured, continue.
* Remove the screws that secure the control panel to the generator.
* Check the continuity of the main ON/OFF switch. In the OFF position it should have continuity across contacts 5 and 6—that is, between wires W/R (b) and W (c).
> If the main ON/OFF switch has no continuity, replace it.
> If the main ON/OFF switch has continuity, continue.
* Disconnect the capacitor (d).
A functioning capacitor can hold up to 30VDC; use care when discharging it. Discharge the capacitor by placing an insulated screw driver or like tool across both of its leads. Then, check the capacitor’s capacitance. It is rated at 1000 µF (microfarads) and should measure within 10% of that
rating.
> If the correct capacitance is not measured, replace the capacitor.
> If the correct capacitance is measured, the capacitor is OK.
All major components of the circuit have now been checked. If the AAS is still not working, check the continuity of all the wires in the circuit.
Repair or replace the wires as needed.
Diagnosing GFI Tripping
A common cause for nuisance tripping of the GFI is incorrect wiring. If you experience tripping of the GFI when changing from the 120V mode to the 240V mode, check the wiring running through the GFI. There should be four brown wires and two blue wires running through the ammeter portion (a) of the GFI. If you have any other combination, refer to the wiring schematic and correct the situation.
If you’re not sure whether tripping of the main circuit breaker is due to the GFI or due to the main circuit breaker, carry out the following test:
* Turn off the generator.
* Disconnect yellow wire (b) from the shunt of the main circuit breaker.
* Place the main circuit breaker in the 120V mode position.
* Start the generator and switch the main circuit breaker from the 120V position to the 240V position. If the GFI trips and its red light is on, the problem lies within the GFI. Check the wiring through the ammeter portion of the GFI. If the wiring is correct, replace the GFI.
>> If the GFI does not trip, the problem lies in the main circuit breaker. Replace the main circuit breaker.
